Where to begin? For those trepidatious about the note, begin with fragrances where rose assumes a jointly complementary role. Fragrances inspired by Middle Eastern style accords are a good place to start. In Histoires de Parfums Rosam, 'rosam' being the latin singular for rose, the rose-oud combination becomes a trio with the addition of saffron, with its shiny and almost honey-like intensity, then washed in incense. Rosam employs Arabian Taif rose, known for its spiciness, complexity, and slightly tannic astringency. Altogether, it's like a rose coated in glossy shellac.
For rose realism, Etat Libre d'Orange's Eau de Protection pays homage to the full picture of rose: earthy stems and leaves included, as if pricking your thumb on a thorn, moving rose into the dark territory of black pepper, ginger, patchouli and cumin. This is a symphony through multiplicity. Whilst Burnt Roses (BTSO) keeps this idea but does it differently, offering a bouquet of roses that have been spiced, singed, dried, and salted. It offers a long span of rose complexity in a single instance, which becomes a dramatic scene that begins with luminous aldehydes and shadowy incense – working together to frame these roses. It is a floral dust scattered amongst amber and smoke. Finally, Heeley’s Hippie Rose paints the floral in watercolour - softening its edges while adding an addictive viscosity. This could be Debussy’s rose, as the central duet of rose and patchouli is seen as a reflection in the water, coloured by the pristine blues and oranges of the dusky sky and the green mosses that spread themselves across this garden. The total aromatic effect is spicy, crisp, fruity, and nuanced with fine touches of incense, amber, and vetiver for a woody and dark counterpoint.
For a guilty treat, Tauer is the rose maestro. Incense Rose (Tauer) hypercharges rose and plays a game of contrasts, as reviving cardamon and clementine are grounded with the dark gothic notes of incense, patchouli, and castoreum. There is nothing as lively or as characterful as this. Incense Rose is not only an exalted rose, but exalted happiness. PHI Une Rose de Kandahar (Tauer) employs an exclusive rose from Nangarhar, and demonstrates Andy Tauer’s generous mantra – quality ingredients lend themselves to generosity. PHI is a blushing rose of discreet and distinguished powdery elegance, met with a cool gust of tobacco, apricot, and pale almond, then combined with a beautifully refined note of amber and mature vanilla.
