Parle Moi de Parfum's Papyrus Oud respects the oud note whilst rendering its moreish dryness. Here oud takes on a dry, almost liturgical dimension as it finds itself in an Asiatic temple surrounded in papyrus, incense, vetiver, cedar, and pine, bordered with sizzling and generous sparks of ginger, pink pepper, and a crisp breeze of clean herbs. It has a gloriously crinkly texture, with beguiling atmosphere and length. It is meditative and resultantly a low pitched fragrance, creating a mysterious mood. Its elegance is unmistakable, presented subtly - it is complex and achieves cleanliness through spiciness. Similarly, Heeley’s Agarwoud shares a turn away from stifling density, its smokiness is sublimated with the fleshy, diffuse, tender, and green touch of rose. This injection of lightness allows nuance to express itself, and Heeley constructs an oud without adulteration - letting it be its fullest self.
Sin & Pleasure (BTSO) emerges from the shadows and does so with sophisticated gourmand bedfellows. Vanilla, caramel, almond, rum, and patchouli lend a saturated hue to a note that wishes to remain in the dark, drawing it out from its umbrous cavern. The final result is a fragrance where oud wood imparts all of its impact and effects - leathery-rubbery, medicinal, and even camphoraceous - sweetness transforms into an unbelievable complexity. Prominent notes of smoke, leather, and almond swirl around a light floral heart, that arrests with its trail.
Black Afgano (Nasomatto) blends oud notes with hashish, tobacco, and coffee to create a total narcotic and mesmerising effect, which is intensely ambery and sturdy with woody base notes. Black Afgano feels like an exclamation point boldly drawn in dizzyingly black ink, and is powerfully expressive and long lasting. Terroni (Orto Parisi) works a vision of oud and combines a strong impression with chunky musks, woody-amber effects and a shiny top note of red fruit. It represents the strength of nature and volcanic activity in particular, and reminds of magma, burnished earth, and fertile soil. To conclude: Tauer's L'Oudh, an impasto oil painting of purifying oud, vetiver root, and castoreum that manages to emphasise luminosity even in darkness.
