Trimming and shaping your facial hair is serious business: it is an architectural process, as the lines of the beard and moustache shape the face and constitute one’s unique ‘look’, and so it’s important to get it right. Here we’ve generated a step-by-step guide (reviewed by one of our barbers themselves) so you can give yourself a barber-approved trim at home.
Before You Begin:
First things first: a good trim needs good gear, good lighting, and a mirror. Hair Clippers with Guards are essential, as these tame any stragglers and uniformly blend the hair together. For precision shaping, a good quality Trimmer is unparalleled in value when it comes to shaping well-defined lines and edges, making the process a cinch; however a Straight Razor paired with a Clear Shaving Lubricant can also be used in its absence. Finally, whether it’s for shortening the beard or moustache more precisely, we recommend using a Beard Comb paired with Sharp Grooming Scissors.
Start with the sideburns. With a 3mm guard, start from below the ear and go upwards from the sideburns and flick into the hairline several times, repeating this process on both sides with the clippers. This will be the shortest length overall, and the rest of the beard growth will blend into this.
Then work the sideburns into and along the jawline (towards the mouth), using a slightly larger guard (4.5mm) and following the growth of the beard, stopping just before the chin.
Swapping to a 6mm guard, now focus on the chin, clipping downwards with the grain, blending it into the growth along the jawline.
For the moustache, that should be the longest bit of growth. Knock out the weight of the ‘mo with a 10mm guard, especially blending the ends of the moustache into the chin. Follow this with some more precise styling, using a trimmer. This requires some pulling and stretching action of the skin in order to not only make the process easier, but to also achieve a more precise result. Follow the general rule of thumb and trim the length of his moustache just above and along the natural curves and length of the upper lip. Easy done.
Now put the trimmer to use on the neckline, pulling the skin of the neck downwards (which creates a sharper, more visible line), and systematically cut and shape piece by piece in a dabbing motion and then stroking down, aiming for approximately 2 fingers above the Adam’s Apple as the basic guide. For a cleaner finish, it can be trimmed against the grain, going upwards.
For any excess beard length, opt for a pair of Dovo Moustache Scissors, which makes light work of trimming facial hair – it also happens to have a blade with a serrated edge, providing excellent grip, holding the hair in place. Comb the beard down and cut horizontally, and use a finger on your non-cutting hand to hold the back of the scissors for stability. At this stage, you may shape the beard as desired, be it square, pointy, or rounded. Alternatively, for a tighter look, clipper the beard down into the skin.
You may then further clean up the neckline and the line of the beard above the cheeks by shaving with the grain with a straight razor and a transparent shaving gel or oil, which allows you to see what you’re doing. This emulates the barbershop experience at home (you can even get creative and prepare some hot towels with some recently boiled water). Stretch the skin that you’re shaving to make it taut, providing a smooth and safe surface to shave, and take your time – there’s nothing as gratifying as razor sharp metal against the face. Alternatively, a precision trimmer may be used at this point.
To conclude: style yourself up – a beard balm and moustache wax for light styling, some pomade in the hair on the head, a nice smelling aftershave – and you’re ready to go out, or at least, venture into the next room.